Circuit Hero K-series K20 Billet Oil Pan Baffle Black Ano

Circuit Hero Billet K-Series Oil Pan Baffle

Tracking your K series and you're worried about oil starvation in long corners or hard braking? The Circuit Hero billet oil pan baffle sits on the floor of your oil pan and directs oil toward the pickup. When you're pulling high Gs in corners or you're braking hard, your oil sloshes away from the pickup and your oil pump sucks air. That's oil starvation and it kills bearings fast. The baffle has doors that let oil flow into the sump area but they close when the oil tries to slosh back out. That keeps oil around the pickup so your pump's always got something to pull from. If you're doing track days or road racing and you're running a stock oil pan, this baffle's mandatory unless you want to spin a bearing.

Here's How Oil Starvation Happens on Track

Your oil pan holds about 4-5 quarts of oil. When you're going straight, the oil sits at the bottom of the pan around the pickup. But when you're pulling 1+ G in a long right-hander, all that oil sloshes to the left side of the pan away from the pickup. Your oil pump's sucking from the pickup and there's no oil there - just air. Same thing happens under hard braking. The oil rushes forward and uncovers the pickup. When your pump sucks air, your oil pressure drops to zero and your rod bearings and main bearings aren't getting oil. A few seconds of oil starvation at high RPM and you're done - spun bearing, cracked rod, destroyed engine. The baffle keeps oil around the pickup even when it's sloshing around.

Five Doors Control Oil Flow

The baffle has five hinged doors - two flush-mount doors and three low-profile doors. The doors open when oil flows toward the pickup area (like when you're accelerating or the oil's settling back down). The doors close when the oil tries to flow away from the pickup (like when you're cornering or braking). It's a one-way system. Oil gets in, but it doesn't get out easily. That keeps a reserve of oil around the pickup so your pump's always got something to pull from even when the rest of the oil's sloshing around the pan.

CNC-Machined 6061 Aluminum

Circuit Hero machines this baffle from 6061 aluminum. It's thin and lightweight so it doesn't restrict oil flow or take up a bunch of space in your pan. The baffle's got a black anodized finish for corrosion resistance. It's not going to corrode from sitting in hot oil. The CNC machining means the tolerances are tight and the doors seal properly. Cheap baffles have sloppy tolerances and the doors don't seal right, so oil still sloshes past them.

Drop-In Installation

The baffle drops into your oil pan. You're pulling your oil pan off, dropping the baffle onto the pan floor, and bolting the pan back on. You don't need to weld anything or modify your pan. The baffle sits flat on the pan floor and it doesn't interfere with your oil pickup or windage tray if you're running one. Installation takes about the same time as an oil pan gasket replacement.

What You Get

• Circuit Hero billet K-series oil pan baffle
• CNC-machined 6061 aluminum construction
• Black anodized finish
• Five hinged doors (2 flush-mount, 3 low-profile)
• Drop-in installation (no welding or modification required)
• Compatible with stock oil pans

Fits Your Car

• K20 engines (all variants with stock-style oil pan)
• K24 engines (all variants with stock-style oil pan)

Compatible With

• 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S
• 2001-2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3R)
• 2001-2006 Honda Integra Type R (DC5R)

Note: This baffle only works with stock-style K-series oil pans. If you're running an aftermarket baffled oil pan or a dry sump system, you don't need this. The baffle's designed for people running stock oil pans on track. If you're doing serious road racing with sustained high-G cornering, a baffle helps but it's not a perfect solution. For the best oil control, you want a baffled oil pan, an Accusump, or a dry sump system. But if you're doing track days or occasional racing on a budget, this baffle's way better than nothing. When you're installing the baffle, make sure the doors move freely and they're not binding. If a door's stuck open, oil will slosh past it and the baffle won't work. Check your oil level after you install the baffle. The baffle takes up some volume in the pan, so you might need to add a bit more oil to get to the full mark on your dipstick.