Honda K24A/K24Z Water Pump Gasket 19222-RAA-A01

Honda K24A/K24Z Water Pump Gasket - 19222-RAA-A01

Your K24's leaking coolant from the water pump area and you're not sure if you need a whole new water pump or just the gasket? Part number 19222-RAA-A01. This is the OEM gasket that seals your water pump to the engine block. The gasket sits between the water pump housing and the water passage to stop coolant from leaking out. Sometimes your water pump's perfectly fine and it's just the gasket that's failed. A weeping water pump doesn't always mean you need to drop $150 on a new pump, sometimes it's a ten-dollar gasket that'll fix it. Pull the pump, inspect it, slap a fresh gasket on, and you might be done. Way cheaper than throwing parts at it.

Here's When It's Just the Gasket

If you're seeing coolant seepage right at the seam where the water pump bolts to the block, that's the gasket leaking. The pump itself might be fine, good bearings, no shaft play, impeller's not damaged. But the gasket's old and compressed and it's not sealing anymore. Water pump gaskets fail from age and heat cycling. The gasket material gets hard, shrinks a bit, and stops sealing. You'll see crusty dried coolant around the pump or wet coolant seeping from the gasket line. If that's your only symptom and the pump spins smooth with no bearing noise, try a new gasket before you buy a whole pump. Pull the pump off, clean the mating surfaces, install a fresh gasket, torque it down, and see if that fixes it. If the leak stops, you just saved yourself $140.

Required When Replacing Your Water Pump

If your water pump's actually bad, bearings are grinding, shaft's got play, impeller's chewed up, you need a new pump. When you're installing that new pump, you need this gasket. Some water pumps come with a gasket, some don't. Check before you order. If your pump doesn't come with a gasket, you need to buy one separately. Don't try to install a new water pump with the old crusty gasket. It won't seal and you'll be leaking coolant before you even finish filling the cooling system. If you're doing a timing chain job and you're pulling the water pump for access, same deal, you need a fresh gasket when you reinstall it.

Always Replace It, Never Reuse It

Water pump gaskets are one-time use. Once you've unbolted the pump and broken the seal, that gasket's done. The gasket compresses when it's torqued down and takes a set to match the mating surfaces. When you pull the pump off, you can't reuse that gasket. It won't seal right. You're getting leaks within days. The gasket's cheap - a few bucks. Don't try to save money by reusing the old one. Just replace it every time you pull the water pump off. Whether you're diagnosing a leak, replacing the pump, or doing timing chain work, fresh gasket goes in every time.

What You Get

• Honda OEM water pump gasket (part number 19222-RAA-A01)
• Seals water pump to engine block
• Prevents coolant leaks at water pump mounting surface
• Paper/composite gasket material
• Same gasket your engine came with from the factory

Fits Your Car

• 2013-2015 Acura ILX
• 2007-2012 Acura RDX
• 2004-2014 Acura TSX
• 2003-2012 Honda Accord (K24)
• 2012-2015 Honda Civic Si
• 2007-2014 Honda CR-V
• 2012-2015 Honda Crosstour
• 2003-2011 Honda Element

Compatible Engines

• K23A1 (2007-2012 RDX turbo)
• K24A2 (2004-2008 TSX)
• K24A4 (2003-2007 Accord, 2003-2006 Element)
• K24A8 (2007-2011 Element, 2007-2009 CR-V)
• K24Y2 (K23A1 designation variant)
• K24Z1 (2010-2014 CR-V)
• K24Z2 (2008-2012 Accord)
• K24Z3 (2009-2014 TSX, 2012-2015 Civic Si)
• K24Z7 (2013-2015 ILX)

Note: Before you buy a whole water pump, check if it's just the gasket leaking. If you're seeing coolant seepage right where the pump meets the block and the pump bearings are still good, try replacing just the gasket. Pull the pump, clean the mating surfaces on both the pump and the block, install this fresh gasket, and reinstall the pump. If that fixes the leak, you just saved $140. When you're installing the gasket, scrape off all the old gasket material from both surfaces. Use a plastic scraper so you don't gouge the aluminum. Any old gasket left behind will cause leaks. Clean everything with brake cleaner and let it dry. Install the gasket dry - don't use RTV or sealant unless your service manual says to. Position the gasket on the block, set the pump on top, and start all the bolts finger-tight. Torque the water pump bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern - usually around 9-10 ft-lbs for K24 pumps. Don't overtighten or you'll crush the gasket. After you've installed the pump and filled the cooling system, start the engine and check for leaks. Let it warm up to operating temperature and watch the water pump area. If it's still leaking after you've replaced the gasket, your water pump's probably bad and you need the whole pump. But if the leak stops, you just fixed it for three bucks instead of $150. If you're replacing your water pump because it's actually failed, make sure you've got this gasket before you start. Some aftermarket pumps come with a gasket, some don't. OEM pumps usually don't include the gasket. Order it separately so you're not stuck waiting on a part.